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What We Know

When you think about British microbrand Studio Underd0g, three-handers and chronographs probably come to mind. And you’d be right, because that’s pretty much what the brand has been up to since its founding, starting with the Seagull-powered 01Series chronographs, the distinctive sapphire-and-screw-dialed 02Series field watches, and the monopusher 03Series Sellita-powered chronographs. But finally, the brand branches out into calendar complications with the new, more classically-inspired 04Series.

The 04Series marks Studio Underd0g’s first calendar complication in the collection, which offers a moonphase, retrograde pointer date, and weekend indicator, in one package priced at $1,100. To achieve this price point with these several complications, Studio Underd0g continues its relationship with Chinese movement manufacturer Seagull to develop a new movement for this collection, the Seagull Automatic ST-2115B. The retrograde pointer-date is adjusted through a recessed pusher above the crown at 2 o’clock, the moonphase is adjusted through a recessed pusher at 7 o’clock, and the weekend indicator is set through the crown. The caliber beats at 28,800 VpH and offers a power reserve of 42 hours.

The case is rendered in a Calatrava-style silhouette, in stainless steel and in two sizes—37mm and a larger 38.5mm. Interestingly, both case sizes appear to maintain an identical lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm, and the main change is visual, with the larger size having a thicker bezel and stubbier lugs.

The thickness is 13.5mm, and water resistance is 50 meters. There are four funky, classically Underdog colorways for the new dial design, which feels rather conservative in the context of the brand. Cloud10 is a mix of periwinkle and bright red, Arabian Sky pairs shades of green with a golden-hued dial, Shepherd’s Delight takes a cherry red dial and adds hints of purple and lilac, and 0vercast goes for a more Halloween-appropriate mix of orange and yellow on top of a dark grey. The weekend display is shown through apertures CNC-machined in the dial, with a printed railroad track separating that display and the hand for the pointer date.

As with many of its watches, Studio Underd0g is using British strapmaker The Strap Tailor for the different colored straps that complement each of the four color schemes. The 04Series is not limited in production and will be available for $1,100 on Studio Underd0g’s website starting November 17th.

What We Think

It’s certainly a welcome sight to see Studio Underd0g branch out from its comfort zone to bring out something rather interesting, especially in actively working with Seagull to bring the new caliber to life. The weekend display, however, immediately reminds me of Krayon’s caliber for the Anyday, which broke ground in this area by laying out the entire month with a weekend and weekday display, taking the self-proclaimed title of the “first mechanical planner watch to cover an entire month at a glance.” Though the Anyday and the 04Series could not be more different in tiers of horology and price point, the similarity is certainly notable in the combination of a pointer date with a weekday-weekend display.

While Studio Underd0g has always offered a contemporary twist on classic watch design, I find that 04Series feels more stuck in the latter camp. At the same time, the toning down of the design for the new collection is sure to appeal to a wider audience that perhaps found the field watches to be a bit too bold, while still offering those unique color combinations that feel synonymous with the brand. A big question that I can’t weigh in on here is fit and finish, especially with regard to this new Seagull caliber—though the price point feels quite nice for what you are getting here in a calendar complication, especially with a retrograde pointer date, it’ll be important to know how setting and interacting with the mechanism will feel in person.

The Basics

Brand: Studio Underd0g

Model: 04SERIES Calendar

Reference Number: 04CLCH (Cloud10); 04ASEM (Arabian Sky); 04SDNA (Shepherd's Delight); 04OVCA (0Vercast)

Diameter: 37mm or 38.5mm

Thickness: 13.5mm (10.5mm excluding crystal)

Case Material: Stainless steel

Dial Color: Various

Indexes: Printed

Lume: No

Water Resistance: 5 ATM

Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap made by The Strap Tailor

The Movement

Caliber: Seagull Automatic ST-2115B for Studio Underd0g

Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde pointer date, weekend indicator, moonphase display

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Winding: Automatic

Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)

Chronometer Certified: No

Additional Details: Rated at -10/+15 seconds per day

Pricing & Availability

Price: $1,100

Availability: Studio Underd0g, from November 17th

Limited Edition: No